A Survey of the Seven Churches of Asia

Summary and Context

Originally penned by Thomas Smith, B.D. in 1678, this document chronicles an adventurous journey through the ruins of the Seven Churches of Asia mentioned in the Book of Revelation. These churches were once vibrant centers of early Christianity, personally addressed by Christ through the Apostle John. Smith's travel occurred in the spring of 1671, during a temporary stay in Smyrna (modern-day Izmir, Turkey), and took him through the ancient remains of Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamum, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia, Laodicea, and surrounding cities. The journey was motivated by curiosity, reverence for antiquity, and the desire to see firsthand the current state of places once burning with apostolic fervor.

This interpretive paper modernizes Smith's prose, replaces archaic or now-obscure place names with their Biblical and modern counterparts, and adds modern measurements alongside original distances to enhance accessibility for contemporary readers.

A Modern Interpretation of Smith's Journey

During a stay in Smyrna (modern-day Izmir), Thomas Smith prepared to return to Christendom from Constantinople. While waiting for passage, he resolved to visit the Seven Churches of Asia—once thriving centers of Christian faith. Traveling with fellow Englishmen, a cook, Armenian Christians, and local guides, he began the journey on April 3, 1671.

They crossed the Hermus River (now the Gediz River), as wide and deep as the Thames at Windsor. Afterward, they traveled northward toward Pergamum (modern Bergama), covering about 64 miles (103 km) from Smyrna. They rode along rugged coasts, through ancient towns and fertile plains, eventually reaching the ruins of Pergamum where Smith observed an imposing fortress, remnants of early Christian churches, Roman aqueducts, temples, and the sad decline of its Christian inhabitants—only a few remained, struggling under Ottoman rule.

Next, they ventured 48 miles (77 km) southeast to Thyatira (now Akhisar), passing abandoned ruins buried beneath modern structures. Inscriptions dedicated to Diana and to ancient priestesses confirmed the city's ancient identity, even as most of its grandeur lay underground.

Another 45-mile (72 km) ride south brought them to Sardis (modern Sart), nestled at the foot of Mount Tmolus. Once the capital of Lydia and famed for its wealth, Sardis now lay in desolation. Earthquakes and war had torn its splendor apart, leaving vast ruins, broken columns, and foundations of what were once majestic churches.

From Sardis, a 27-mile (43 km) southeast ride brought them to Philadelphia (now Alaşehir), the last of the cities to resist Ottoman conquest. Here, a broken wall of human bones stood as a grim reminder of Bayezid I's conquest in the late 1300s. Though impoverished, Philadelphia still had a sizeable Christian population with four active churches.

Onward to Hierapolis (now Pamukkale), Smith beheld vast white cliffs and surreal mineral formations, remnants of its temples, and theatres. Sacred healing waters once revered for their curative properties now bathed the ruins in an eerie beauty.

A brief ride brought them to Colosse (modern Honaz), home of the Colossian church Paul wrote to. Though perched on a scenic hill, the town was hostile and impoverished. Few Christians remained.

Southwest of Colosse, they reached Laodicea (near Denizli) after 20 miles (32 km). It was completely deserted. Wild animals roamed where once three theatres and a massive circus had drawn crowds. Arches and aqueducts stood in eerie silence.

On April 18, they passed through ancient Tralles (modern Aydın), once a Christian bishop's seat. Its ruins, aqueducts, and layout made clear its former significance. The nearby town, Guzel-Hisar, flourished with trade and crafts.

By April 20, the group arrived at Ephesus (modern Selçuk). Once the foremost city in Asia, Ephesus had fallen into tragic decay. Between two hills, under the watch of ancient watchtowers, they explored the ruins of the Temple of Artemis (Diana), St. John's Basilica, aqueducts, amphitheaters, and even the cave of the Seven Sleepers. A labyrinth beneath the temple hinted at early Christian worship in times of persecution.

Saint John, the author of Revelation, had lived and died in Ephesus. His church, now a mosque, still stood in part, and near it lay a vast font of porphyry—likely a later addition but revered as his baptistry. The nearby river Cayster (modern Küçük Menderes) meandered below the city.

Finally, Smith returned to Smyrna via a route through Mount Mimas and Karagick-Kuy. There he visited the amphitheater where Saint Polycarp, Bishop of Smyrna, had been martyred. His tomb was still revered by the local Greek Christians.

Conclusion

Thomas Smith's observations echo not only a lament for the fallen splendor of these churches but a prophetic warning to the Church today. His experience through Anatolia, walking amid the bones of former glory, reaffirms the timeless call of Revelation: “Repent and do the first works… or I will remove your candlestick.”

Though the buildings crumble, the testimonies of faith endure.

Originally authored by Thomas Smith, B.D. (1678)
Interpreted by Larry N. C. Warner